Saturday, February 21, 2009

Goodbye Taiwan! (We'll miss you!!!)

The two of us on the plane, heading home... Very tired, but very happy.
Dinner our last night in Taipei: We had indian food (a ton of it) at a Taiwanese shopping mall.
Brian skipping stones at the seashore, Chingzhou cliffs, Taroko Gorge National Park.
Cat throwing stones and looking a little transcendental.
"Cat, give me a pose!"
"Where's my motivation?"

The Chinzhou cliffs and heading home...

The pagoda attached to a Buddhist temple in Taroko Gorge, we climbed to the top of this building and had a great view of the river valley and the boddhisatva below.

The roof of the Buddhist temple in Taroko; this entire building is made of concrete.

Boddhisatva statue, Taroko Gorge.

Taroko Gorge

The inner gorge of a river at Taroko Gorge


Catherine and Teresa on the swing bridge; behind them, one of the two waterfalls from this section of the hike, falls down many feet to the riverbed.

Friday, February 20, 2009


Homeward Bound

We woke up to buffet breakfast in the hotel Grand Formosa, and packed our things for hiking in the park. We planned on going to a trail called the Baiyang Waterfall trail, however as we drove out of the little crossroads where our hotel was located, we quickly realized that the route would be more difficult than we had thought. A rockfall had collapsed part of the roadway and there was a crew working to clear the rubble. Cat and I asked the road worker, whose teeth were stained red with beteljuice, if the way was clear. "Five!" he said, then, counting on his fingers, "One, two, three, four, five." (Hours, minutes? It was anyone's guess). The man pointed to Catherine's mom, pointed at me and asked: "Mother?" I pointed at Catherine. He smiled and pointed at the two of us: "You are married?" We grinned and shook our heads. "Kids?" Nope, but thanks for asking.

We decided to see the buddhist temple in the little town below while we waited for the road to clear. The temple is located on an escarpment overlooking the river and the top of it shrouded in fog. We climbed the inside of a pagoda and looked out over the river and now we have to board our plane!!! SORRY to lead you on! Talk to you in the USA!!!

Cat and Brian

Brian and Cat

Ni HAO!

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Taroko Gorge




After returning to Taichung City we slept and woke early to drive across the island to Taroko Gorge. Dan drove the entire way, through many tunnels (including a 12.9Km tunnel) and onto the narrow winding coastal highway that passes along many steep bluffs on the way to Taroko Gorge national park. 


Taroko Gorge is made of incredibly deep slot canyons carved from granite. The water is a pearly blue. The old highway runs along the river, and was carved by hand during the occupation by Japan. We did some walking along the trail and ended up at the Hotel Formosa for the evening. 

Now we are packing to hike and head back to Taipei, where tomorrow Cat and I have to take our leave of Taiwan and return to NYC. *Sigh*

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

The narrow gauge train to Alishan


DSCF2910, originally uploaded by nycteacherbrian.

This is the locomotive of the train we rode up the mountain. It actually PUSHED the train up the mountain, or as the sign read "this train is propelled by the power of push". (Translations always good for a chuckle)

Boarding the train to Alishan


DSCF2907, originally uploaded by nycteacherbrian.

Sunset on Alishan



Arrival at the little mountain tourist town of Alishan found us jumping on a little bus with some of our new-found friends from the train to the Alishan House hotel. The sun was setting just as we checked in, and Brian took these sweet photos documenting the occasion. We ate a "hot pot" dinner (soup on a burner on the table), and Catherine nearly fell asleep in her portion. Luckily everyone was able to make it back to the hotel before falling over, and we proceeded to pass out cold around 8 pm. Oh, jetlag!

Trains!








After our early morning sunrise viewing and smiley-face breakfast, we departed Taichung via high-speed train for the little town of Chaiyi. A bus ride from there brought us to another train... this one was the polar opposite of the first; it was old, slow, and bumpy. But what a ride! It bore us through 3 different vegetation zones and well over 45 tunnels on a very narrow track. We made stops for a truck which was abandoned in the middle of the track, as well as a section of washed out track, where we took a nice little 500m hike to the next train. This train climbed the mountain... FAST. Note the map labeled "Spirality of Dulishan" which depicts the unusual route the train follows in one such climb. As we got closer to our destination, Alishan, we stopped seeing palms and began seeing larger and larger cypress trees... To be continued...

Reflections


Reflections, originally uploaded by nycteacherbrian.

Photo taken from the top of Hotel One (tallest building in Taichung) as Brian and I watched the sun come up from a very empty lounge.
-Catherine

Breakfast of Champions


Breakfast of Champions, originally uploaded by nycteacherbrian.

Riding the Rails: 1 of 2

It's been two busy days since our last entry. We woke up yesterday morning before the sunrise and walked out to see the people of Taichung practicing their aerobics. Catherine snuck us into the Hotel One, the tallest building in Taichung, to see the sunrise from their opulent lounge on the 29th floor, and we ate breakfast coming back at a place where they actually made smiley faces on their potato pancakes in ketchup. Upon returning we visited the flower market and toured the new side of town, where it did look like the national bird of Taiwan was the crane. The construction was proceeding at such a rate that you would be surprised to hear that there is a global recession going on. 

Monday, February 16, 2009

Taichung City- Wiped Out





We walked all over creation today. The "creation" being the last twenty years of progress in this bustling city of a million (officially). Our travels included dried-up canals, sculpture parks, T-shirts with "Chenglish" writing on them (see photo), mystery meals, delicious dumplings, Chinese parrots, tiny alleys, tree-climbing, swinging, visiting Taoist temples, incense burning, and one enormous, gargantuan, behemoth of a pet pig. 

We also hunted down the source of the mysterious "Fuhr Elise," that was haunting our early morning in the "Chateau," AKA, apartment. Brian thought it was the police cars, but was dead wrong. Catherine thought it was someone selling something, AKA Mr. Frostee. But we were both wrong. 

It was...
The...
GARBAGE MAN!!!

Dinner tonight at Thai Work restaurant, with the folks. Now, exhausted, feet-aching and sore, debating the virtues of sleeping pills, planning on bringing umbrellas tomorrow to keep our complexions oh-so-pale (!ting!ting!). Goodnight world! (good morning friends in the USA)...

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Never eat anything bigger than your head




We woke up today to a cool, windy morning in Taichung City, Taiwan. The traffic in the streets is not as crazy or hectic as New York, and the city seems to be calm for the most part. Across the street is a childcare place that says, "Dreams can come true," with a little boy and a spyglass. A hydrangea (tree) towers over a play place, blanketing the grass with orange flowers.

After some difficulty with the water boiler, we managed to get coffee and tea made, and toasted two (individually wrapped) bagels. There is the sound of "Fuhr Elise" coming from somewhere, like the ubiquitous Mr. Frostee trucks in New York City, but as yet unsourced. 

Some pics, today: "Never eat anything bigger than your head," the title of a B. Kliban book of cartoons (Craig'll appreciate it) and also, a truthful reference to the size of Asian pears here. They are ENORMOUS. 


The Parade of Eating Begins!






Clinton Avenue, Brooklyn: 6:35AM.
Walking quickly against a brisk, frigid wind, we pass the brownstones and mansions of Clinton Hill, heading towards the A Train. At Clinton-Washington Avenues, a man in a black, fur-lined jacket stammers out an awkward plea for help, just two dollars. We descend into the subway station, and Catherine has to buy a new Metrocard. The man follows, continues persistently in his quest for a buck. Catherine gives him some of her change, he responds with a "Happy valentines day," reminding us that it is Saturday, February 14th, 2009: V-Day. We realize after swiping her card that we are on the wrong side of the tracks, and crossing quickly over to the other side of the street, we miss the departing train, and the wait begins to drag, as the platform slowly fills with people bound not for the shining city, but for the outer parts of the outer borough. Finally, after twenty minutes, an A train pulls into the station. We take it to Lefferts Boulevard where we wait only a few moments for a Q10 Bus to JFK. It is now 7:45A. We make it to the airport, no issues, and our plane departs at 9:00AM. 

The fun really begins when we reach Detroit. As business-class passengers, we are entitled to access the NW Travelers club, where we drink (excellent) free espressos and eat (mediocre) free cookies. After what seems like no time at all, we are walking back to board our next plane, a Boeing 747 double-decker, bound from Detroit to KIX (Japan). Our seats are on the top level of the plane, in an oval room with oval walls sloping gently inward. It's like being in the top of an egg, and our chairs fit with this analogy. They are futuristic pods that cocoon the seated individual with all the luxuries that are available to the airplane age: Lumbar massagers, LED reading lights on flexible stalks (think HAL 9000) and flip-up flatscreen TVs with video on demand (such options as The Sandlot sharing spaces with new releases- I watch Toy Story and Cat watches Rachel Getting Married, we both cue up and watch The Sandlot). 

Upon entering the cabin, we are asked if we would like any champagne, a tradition that I believe should be extended (socialize!) to all sections of all flights everywhere in the world. We drink down our bubbly, cheers-ing to Valentines day in flight, and then we are proffered the menus for the evening's (morning, evening, night, whatever) meal. 

Thus began the parade of eating, which started with salads, hors d'oeurves of steak and salmon, and continued to liquors (amaretto) and gouda / havarti plates, to the dinner of steak and salmon, snack of yogurt parfait, and finally the "arrival meal". 

The flight took us on a path over lake Superior, the Wabakimi Wilderness area in Canada, the Cootenai National Forest and up to Alaska, where we crossed (in sort of a reverse path to that of our ancestral hominid brethren) the Bering Strait and descended into Russia. Opening the windows over Canada revealed chains of interconnected lakes, all frozen solid, and some of them with what appeared to be mile long roads carved across the frozen surfaces. 

In Russia, Brian happened to open the window and the sight was of unending, snowclad mountains as far as the eye could see. Japan, cloudy, no Fuji in sight. 

We typed some messages to folks at home from the airport in Japan, and uploaded some photos to Flickr (www.flickr.com/photos/brianblakely) and boarded the same plane, same seat, for the remainder of  the flight to Taiwan. This leg of the journey we slept as much as we could and didn't even finish our amarettos. Upon arriving in Taipei, we gathered our belongings, changed currency and walked outside. A pert man with a sign labeled "Catherine Nolet" smiled and waved us to the curb. 

The city of Taipei slipped past the windows quietly, blanketed in fog. Emerging from the night, towers of neon lights and glowing rows of red warning lights flashed from the sides of the modern highway. We slept, drifting in and out as the car passed what looked like industrial parks and hidden apartment buildings.

After two hours we awoke to the blaring neon lights and low motor hum of scooters. Taichung City was awake, at 11:30PM on a Saturday night, and the streets bustling with life. Tall, new buildings that look like shopping malls and high-rise apartments rise up from the streets with shining, reflective glass on the windows, and neon everywhere. 

The Nolet residence, however, is set off of the main drag a block, tastefully clad in blonde stone that looks like it was carved from the wailing wall. A large, well-appointed entryway leads onto a courtyard pond. Everything in the place exudes class, befitting of the name Cha-Teau. As we arrive, Teresa - Cat's mom, walks out the door with a book in her hands, "I just guessed!" she explains, "Mothers are psychic sometimes."  We follow her inside, up the elevator to the 6th floor, and into the beautiful and comfortable apartment of Cat's parents. Hints of home in Kentucky are hidden among the asian-themed art and architecture: A painting of horses standing in a pasture, a quilt laid across a modern sofa, all speak of home. We drink some tea, talk about the city, and now it's bedtime.

Temperatures are expected to be in the 80s tomorrow, and we look forward to wandering the city streets, exploring and drinking bubble tea, perhaps even testing out our new (although extremely limited) Mandarin vocabulary.